Cliffs of Moher and Glendalough and Wicklow Valley

The Cliffs of Moher, about an hour south of Galway on the Wild Atlantic Way is considered among the top-visited tourist sites in Ireland and receive almost one million visitors a year. They rise 120 meters (390 ft) above the Atlantic Ocean at Hag's Head and reach their maximum height of 214 meters (702 ft) just north of O'Brien's Tower eight kilometers to the north.  Spectacular!

We walked these 8 kilometers (about 3 hours round trip) starting south heading to Hag's Head.  There was tremendous wind and sometimes rain.  Fun! 

 Our first view of the cliffs at the beginning of the walk

On the ledge

Wow! Looking south

At times, you had to walk on the muddy path right on the edge--no barrier.  At other places, there were big, flat stone slabs and you could walk on the inland side.

 Our path, slabs on the left side

 We love crashing waves and rocks

 Very sheer sides

 Tons of rock piles

Another view

 And another

Dramatic!

 We made it to Hag's Head--VERY windy!

This was the mid-way point for us, and we turned around and headed back.

 Can't get enough!!!

We ended our walk at O'Brien's tower at the northern part of the cliffs.  It looks old, but was only built in 1835.

 O'Brien's Tower

The next day, after spending a night in a charming B&B in Kilkee, we headed back to Dublin and stopped in Glendalough.  It is a glacial valley in County Wicklow, Ireland, renowned for an Early Medieval monastic settlement founded in the 6th century by St Kevin.

Monastic tower

 

We took a rainy stroll through the valley and passed Lower Lake and Upper Lake.

Lower Lake

Upper Lake

Mossy forest path

River between the lakes

Wicklow Valley

Rocky mountain above the tree line

Galway and Inishmore (Aran Islands)

Our main reason for going to Galway was for Miles  to give a lecture and meet with colleagues at NUI.  Instead of two days there, we stayed only 1 day (cut our time there short because we wanted  to see a bit of the coastline before Miles flew to D.C. for his dad's funeral).  That's why I don't have any pictures of Galway besides the university.

NUI (National University of Ireland)

Such a beautiful university

So while Miles spent his day at the university, I went on a day tour to Inishmore, the largest of the 3 islands in Galway Bay called the Aran Islands.

After a 45-minute ferry ride, we landed at a small and quaint dock with a few stores and B&B's.  The day was grey and drippy, but this only added to the atmosphere.

The island is famous for its strong Irish culture, loyalty to the Irish language, and an abundance of Pre-Christian and Christian ancient sites including Dun Aengus, a pre-historic fort.

 Dun Aengus

There are only about 840 inhabitants. The main jobs are related to fishing, cattle and tourism.  The land is not suitable for growing crops and is full, I mean FULL, of rocks.  There are stone fences everywhere and our guide said there are about 7,800 kilometers of stone fences on the island which is only about 31 km² (12 sq mi).  Really, really beautiful.

 Rocky landscape

 Lots and lots of stone fences

The area is also well-known for beautiful cliffs.

Cliffs, wind and no railings--yikes!

 Currach, traditional fishing boat

Thatched house--very few of these are left

Inishmore is also the home of Aran Sweaters, the famous Irish fisherman's knit.

I didn't know that the patterns of the stitches have a traditional interpretation, often of religious significance. The honeycomb is a symbol of the hard-working bee. The cable, an integral part of the Aran islander's daily life, is said to be a wish for safety and good luck when fishing. The diamond  is a wish of success, wealth and treasure. The basket stitch represents the basket, a hope for a plentiful catch.

In addition, the patterns are also connected to clans, much like Scottish plaids.

Stitch patterns and clans

I really loved my time on the island, but I wondered how people can live in such a difficult environment.  Tradition!

Athlone and the beginning of Galway and The Wild Atlantic Way

Life is certainly full of twists and turns.

The day before we were due to leave for Galway and the west coast (a 5-day trip including work and lecture for Miles at National University of Ireland, Galway) on Sept. 21st, Miles' dad, Ben, fell yet again and landed in the hospital.  Miles' sister, Lorrie, came down to Florida from Virginia to be at his side.  Ben's condition was very poor and his system was shutting down. With a very heavy heart, we decided to go ahead with our road trip and Miles was in frequent communication with his sister.

Lorrie was able to bring Ben back to his home and have hospice care.  Sadly, but not unexpectedly, Ben passed away a day later on the September 23rd.  We cut our road trip short and Miles left today, the 26th, for D.C. where the funeral will be held later this week.

Despite this sad situation, life does go on. 

Our road trip:

We stopped in Athlone, about an hour west of Dublin. The day was rainy, but we managed a short walk around the little town.

Athlone is famous for its castle...

...but more importantly, Sean's Pub which claims to be the oldest pub in Ireland dating back to 900 A.D. In 2004 Guinness World Records listed Sean's Bar as the oldest pub in Europe. 

 Sean's Pub entrance

 Back view--lots of kegs
Drinking is really a national sport in Ireland

 At 10am, too early for a pint

Athlone has a beautiful river and many canals.

The weather cleared and after a quick scone break, we continued to Galway.  After checking into our B&B, we drove north along the Wild Atlantic Way, a coastal road along the western coast of Ireland.  Sometimes the road went inland and we found the narrower the road, the prettier the view.

Lakes...

rocks...

stone fences...

a little of everything...

...and finally the Atlantic Ocean

Malahide Castle and Gardens

Another adventure took me by DART train 30 minutes north to Malahide Castle.  Malahide itself is a quaint village of 17,000 with a pretty seashore and golf course.  The castle is a few minutes walk from the station.

 

 Entrance to Malahide Castle

 Tower, winding staircase and ivy

The Talbot family, from England, built the castle in1175 and it is one of the oldest castles in Ireland.   It was home to the Talbot family for over 800 years until 1975 and is set on 260 acres which include many gardens. 

There are rooms reminiscent of the early days of the castle as well as more modern renovations.

An 18th century sofa--a young couple would sit in the middle and two chaperones would sit on the sides

 Main dining hall with pictures of Talbot ancestors

This container on the side of the dining room is for keeping food hot

 

View of the grounds from the castle

I walked all around the vast green lawns and gardens thinking about what it must have like to live in a place like this.  My mind kept flipping between King Arthur and Downton Abbey!  For me, this was a serene and thoughtful experience.

 Parterre
A formal garden constructed on a level surface, consisting of planting beds, typically in symmetrical patterns, separated and connected by gravel pathways.

Wooden chair 

 Interesting flower--couldn't find a name--any guesses?